As the ice cream industry reflects on the whirlwind that was the 2023 Ice Cream and Artisan Food Show in Harrogate, we are reflecting on the trends that were unveiled, the people we met and, of course, the questions we were asked most often.
One of the most common questions we were asked in Harrogate was what we would recommend adding to an ice cream recipe to improve its texture. And our answer was simple, you can improve a recipe by adding the very appropriately named ingredient, improvers.
Of course, there are many different improvers out there, all of which serve their own purpose in enhancing an ice cream recipe. Not every recipe will call for an improver; typically these are utilised for products in which you have perfected the flavours, but need that little bit of something extra to improve on texture of shelf-life.
Where might you need improvers?
Common examples of this would be when adding chocolate or nut paste to your gelato or ice cream; you’ll find that this can become quite a hard mixture due to the fats in the ingredients increasing the weight of your product (thereby not holding as much air). We also see this when you have an increase in solids from fatty pastes, your product will become crumblier much quicker (meaning you don’t get as good a shelf life inside your cabinet).
Alternatively, on the other end of the balancing scale, when you add salted caramel or your own caramel paste and salt, you will find that you product becomes much softer. This is due to the anti-freezing properties of the salt (just think of the salt you’d spread on your garden path on icy mornings), not to mention the properties of the sugar (as we know from previous articles, sugar makes ice cream soft).
Ice cream manufacturers on a large scale are able to overcome this by simply adjusting the fats, sugars and proteins to create a better recipe; however for smaller producers (who perhaps have a 30, 60 or 120 litre pasteuriser) they don’t have the luxury of doing this as they will typically make multiple flavours from the same mix.
But fear not! There are products out there to help…
Gelled emulsifier
Our first contender when it comes to improving texture in your ice cream or gelato is the gelled emulsifier. This is often added at the start of your batch freezing, binding together loose water with other fats (or even itself) to trap more air inside during this stage. The increased air that this produces will give your product two outcomes:
- Easier scoopability
- Warmer mouth-feel
We would most commonly use this improver in a sorbet, but we are noticing some in the industry using it for their chocolate recipes; the effectiveness of this, however, will vary due to the total amount of fat within a recipe.
Protein integrator
Next up, and once again looking to improve texture, is the protein integrator. This is usually a mixture of milk proteins and other sugars such as maltodextrin and dextrose; other sugars may also be included in the mix as it helps them to dissolve when blending in cold into your base mix, alongside your flavouring.
Adding this extra protein will result in a warmer feeling gelato, as it will hold loose water for longer, therefore reducing dripping time. Of course, not only will this mean a warmer mouth-feel within your product, but it will also mean a longer lasting product in your cabinet.
Fat integrator
Looking to improve the texture AND stability of your ice cream? Then look no further than fat integrators. This typically comes in a powder form, with a mix of sugars within to help the to dissolve into your mixture.
We have a phrase in the North that I use quite commonly – ‘fat means flavour’. In using a fat integrator within your recipe, you will get a much creamier and warmer flavour, not to mention the fact that this improver will stop your ice cream from getting too soft. For example, the salted caramel recipe we mentioned earlier will benefit hugely from a fat integrator.
Vegetable fibres
Vegetable fibres are mainly utilised in sorbets and again, can be used like a protein. These fibres will bind themselves with water and hold onto this water for longer, once again slowing down dripping time. This improver is also great for balancing a sorbet recipe if you’re short on solids.
We have been asked a few times if vegetable fibres can be used in gelato or ice cream, and whilst they certainly can, you may find that it will give a much lighter finish to your product.
Structure improvers
Structure improvers are usually sugar based liquids (such as inverted sugar), they blend very well into a cold mix and are, arguably, the go-to product for a smoother texture.
Whilst not a personal favourite of ours due to the fact that the clean-up after using them is hard work, structure improvers can be a truly great product to use if you want to improve the silkiness of your gelato or ice cream.
Softeners
Softeners, as you would expect, soften the texture of your ice cream or gelato if the mix is becoming too hard.
This usually contains a high level of dextrose, often used in combination with other sugars to support the sweetness and balance of your mix to ensure it doesn’t become too soft.
Cost effective alternatives
Whilst all improvers mentioned above are available for numerous brands, if you’re looking to save on costs, there are some simpler, more cost-effective alternatives you can use if necessary.
- Protein integrators can be swapped out for skimmed milk powder
- Fat integrators can be replaced with double cream or vegetable fat
- For those looking for softeners, dextrose alone can prove to be an effective alternative
So there you have it, our basic guide to utilising improvers in your ice cream, gelato or sorbet recipes. If you have any questions or would like some recommendations, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with the Antonelli team.